Chillida Leku — 'Chillida's place' in Basque — is the open-air museum Eduardo Chillida (1924–2002) built for his own work, on 11 hectares of meadow and woodland at Hernani, ten minutes from San Sebastián. In the 1980s the sculptor and his wife Pilar Belzunce bought the Zabalaga farmhouse, a Basque caserío dating from 1594, and spent some fifteen years restoring it and shaping the land around it. The museum opened on 16 September 2000, two years before the artist's death: a place he conceived himself, where more than forty monumental sculptures in Corten steel, iron and granite stand among the trees and grass, weathering in the Atlantic light.
Chillida is the Basque Country's most celebrated modern artist — a former Real Sociedad goalkeeper who abandoned architecture studies in Madrid for sculpture, worked in Paris in the late 1940s, then returned home to forge iron in the Basque tradition. His public works anchor cities across Europe: the Peine del Viento (Comb of the Wind, 1977), three steel claws gripping the rocks where San Sebastián's bay meets the open sea; the Elogio del Horizonte above Gijón; the Berlin sculpture outside the German Federal Chancellery. He won the Wolf Prize, the Prince of Asturias Award and Japan's Praemium Imperiale, and his birth centenary has been marked by the international 'Eduardo Chillida 100 Years' programme.
The visit is unlike any conventional museum. You walk the meadows at your own pace, circling sculptures the size of houses, then step into the cathedral-like timber interior of the Zabalaga farmhouse — gutted and rebuilt by Chillida as a single soaring space — where smaller works in alabaster and steel are shown. The museum closed in 2011 and reopened in April 2019 after a careful renovation, with new planting by the Dutch landscape designer Piet Oudolf at the entrance. Entry is by timed slot, and the museum is closed every Tuesday and Wednesday — the two facts worth planning around. We secure your slot, you simply arrive and walk in.